"Here's a picture of a bad place to be at pipeline... :-O That's what happens when one sits deeper than everybody else consistently. Only one other surfer out that day. About 15 bodyboarders. Pipe was crazy and out of control. All the pros and locals were sitting on the beach gawking at the waves. A lifeguard tried to keep me from paddling out. I don't blame him - Haole and on a longboard no less."
Sent by Paul McDonnell via E-mail
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